Seafood is a must in a place like Trieste. There are dozens of seafood restaurants here and they are all of the highest quality so you will be spoilt for choice. However, you should definitely visit either the Faro (a trattoria offering magnificent panoramic views of the gulf, set at the feet of the imposing Faro della Vittoria and only a five minute drive from the city centre) or the Nuovo Antico Pavone – an elegant restaurant on the coast. Trieste is a small place, and it is possible to traverse it within half an hour (either on foot or by bus). As you walk across it, you will pass a large number of excellent cafés and restaurants. There are several which are not to be missed, including Stalletta for its cold starters, meat and hotplate dishes and Dardo Rosso for its delicious Steak Tartar – both of these are in the densely-populated working class district of San Giacomo, near San Giusto Castle. Another good place is Stanlio e Ollio – a candle-lit restaurant offering up imaginative cuisine on the Viale XX Settembre, a fifteen minute walk from the Piazza dell’Unità.
Still in the city centre, you should try and pay a visit to San Marco – the large literary café (in Via Battisti, parallel to Viale XX Settembre) which was frequented by the writer Claudio Magris and by both Svevo and Saba before him—as well as to Pirona – a small pastry shop on Largo Barriera Vecchia. It is one of the oldest of its kind in Italy and was visted for breakfast by James Joyce every morning between 1910 and 1914. Today it sells a wonderful selection of cream pastries and other delightful Central European sweets such as presnitz (a pastry made from nuts and dried fruit, in the shape of Christ’s crown of thorns), putizza (puff pastry) with honey, fave (almond balls with rose oil and cocoa), crostoli, fritole and fritters with pine kernels which are typically made for the carnival.